Retail Details: Spaghetti Straps
		E L I Z A B E T H   T I S I N G E R
		Be right in fashion with these skinny straps.
		Introduction Straight-grain or bias tubes? Seam allowances Basic bias strap Basic straight-grain strap Knit fabrics Very narrow straps Serge or sewing machine? Turning tubes Strap Variations

Introduction		Spaghetti straps, usually the skinnier the better, are an ever-popular detail, seen on runways, in pattern catalogs and on bridal and formal wear. Also known as lingerie or shoestring straps, spaghetti straps are shoulder straps made of narrow cord, ribbon or self-fabric tubes. Use the following tips and considerations when making spaghetti straps from fabric.

Straight-grain or bias tubes?		Sources differ on whether to cut spaghetti straps on the bias or straight fabric grain. Why use bias? Bias strips allow you to get the narrowest strap possible. After sewing a very narrow bias strap, stretching and steaming it takes out the "give" of the straps and makes them even thinner. Bias straps are also smooth and don't twist like straight-grain straps can. Why use straight-grain? Straight-grain straps are stable and don't require all the pressing and steaming used to stretch bias straps. Also, the strap width won't change (like it does when stretching bias straps). This is important if you're setting the strap into a point at the bodice upper edge. Straight-grain strips work well for wide straps.

Seam allowances		When seam allowances are wide enough to fill the strap, they give the tube body and prevent a noticeable ridge on one side. On most straps, this means cutting the fabric strip four to five times the desired finished width. However, lightweight or sheer fabrics may need to be cut six times the desired strap width while on thick or pile fabrics, the seam allowance should be trimmed very close to the stitching line. Straps can also be sewn using just 1/4"-wide seam allowances. This would be desirable in an extra-wide strap where the seam allowances would add bulk to the strap.

Basic bias strap		Cut a bias strip four to five times the desired finished strap width. Fold it right sides together and stitch down the center, stretching while sewing. Turn the tube right side out. Bias straps should be stretched and pressed to prevent stretching and sagging when the garment is worn. Pin the tube to the ironing board and stretch it while steaming and pressing. Allow the tube to cool completely before unpinning it. For very narrow straps, sewing the narrow fabric strip may be difficult. Instead of cutting a strip as directed above, cut wider bias strips and stitch, paying attention to the strap sewn width rather than the seam allowance width. Trim the seam allowance to the desired width.

Basic straight-grain strap		Cut, stitch and turn a straight-grain tube as for a bias tube. Press the tube, placing the seam along one edge or centering it on the strap wrong side. If desired, edgestitch along both edges.

Knit Fabrics		Cut knits on the lengthwise grain. Use a very narrow zigzag or serge the strap, stretching slightly or using a minus differential feed as you sew.

Very narrow straps		Be careful of too-tight or too-narrow straps. These straps can dig into the shoulders and put pressure on the cervical nerve, causing headaches, neck pain or numbness. Instead, if you want the fashionable look of skinny straps, construct the garment bodice so that it stays up on its own (with boning, elastic, etc.), and use the tiny spaghetti straps for show only.

Serge or sewing machine?		Serging narrow bias straps works well because the stitching stretches with the fabric when setting the bias tubes. To fill the tube with the seam allowance as mentioned above, pay attention to the stitch width when serging the straps--make the stitch width just slightly narrower than the finished tube width. Use a narrow balanced stitch on narrow straps. For very narrow straps, use a roll-hem stitch. The rolled edge will fill the straps, creating a nice round shape. For wider straps, use a sewing machine since the serger seam allowance is too narrow to fill wide tubes. Hold the fabric taut when stitching. When sewing bias straps on the sewing machine, use a very narrow zigzag. If the straps buckle or pop the stitches when pulled, use straight-grain straps instead.

Turning tubes Flare out stitching at tube ends for easy turning. Serge seam with chain tucked into fold.		When sewing, cut the straps a little longer than needed and start sewing with a narrow seam allowance. Gradually widen the seam allowance, tapering the stitching to the actual seam line for the strap length, then widen the tube again at the strap opposite end (1). This makes the tube much easier to turn right side out. To turn tubes, use a tube turner, Fasturn, bobby pin, ballpoint bodkin, blunt needle and heavy-duty thread, safety-pin or one of the methods below. If serging the tubes, chain off a length several inches longer than the strap. Bring the chain around to the front of the serger (without cutting it). Fold the fabric strip right sides together and lay the serger chain in the fold. Serge the tube, being careful not to catch the serger chain in the stitching (2). When done, pull the chain to turn the tube to the right side. When serging very narrow tubes, it's easy to catch the chain in the stitching. Instead, use a sewing machine to attach a length of thin string (longer than the tube) to the center of one tube end. Right sides together, fold the strip in half and position the string down the fold. Stitch the tube, being careful not to catch the string in the stitching. It's easier to feel the ridge of the string than a serger chain.

Strap Variations		Double-strap and loop: Make narrow straps twice as long as the pattern calls for, plus several inches. Before attaching the front facing, cut two 3" tubing lengths and make into loops. With the loop cut ends even with the bodice right side upper raw edge, baste the loops to the bodice at the strap placement marks. Attach the facing, securing the loops at the same time. Thread a long strap through each loop and double it back on itself. Try on the garment to determine the correct strap length and secure the strap to the back bodice, either handstitching the strap in place, or securing it in the bodice/facing seam.
		Jeweled back: Make very narrow straps 8" to 10" longer than called for in the pattern. Baste the straps in place at the bodice back upper edge. Attach the facing, securing the straps at the same time. String a shank button onto both straps and slide it down the straps until it's in the center back. Try on the garment to see how moving the button up or down will change how the straps look in front--the straps will look like a halter top if the button is high in the back, and will be more widely spaced if the button is placed low. If the straps aren't thick enough to hold the button in place, tie a knot just below and above the button. Try on the garment to determine the correct strap length, and attach the straps to the front bodice according to the pattern guidesheet.

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