On curved pockets: Wrong side
up, machine baste 1/4" (6.5mm) from the curved raw edge. Draw up the bobbin thread
and adjust the gathering to ease the seam allowances smoothly around the template. Or from
the right side, zigzag over a cord 1/4" (6.5mm) from the raw edge. Pull the cord from
both ends to draw up the curved edges, easing the pocket around the template. Press from
the wrong side over the cardboard (Figure 1); remove the template and
press again from the right side.
- Generally, the pocket is cut on the same grainline as the garment
(lengthwise), but for design interest, especially with stripes or plaids, the pocket
grainline can be on the crosswise or bias grain.
- Interfacing can help prevent the pocket from stretching out of
shape. Pockets made from crisp, firmly woven fabrics are least likely to need interfacing,
though some pocket fabric colors require the additional opacity an interfacing or lining
can provide. Depending on the fabric, pocket shape, placement and use, interface the
finished pocket only or include interfacing in the hem and/or seam allowances as well. Cut
the interfacing with the stable grainline parallel to the opening edge.
- When a pocket is lined, the lining fabric automatically shapes the
pocket when it's turned right side out. Unlined pockets, however, especially curved ones,
require extra help. That's where a cardboard template the size and shape of the finished
pocket comes in handy. Simply slip it under the unlined pocket's finished hem allowance
and press the seam allowances around it.