Hand-rolled Hem - Sew News Magazine

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Sewing Q&A
Terry Siemsen

How do I sew a hand-rolled hem on a scarf?
Sheila H.,
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A hand-rolled hem is a lovely soft finish for a scarf edge. Begin by thread tracing the hemline with hand stitches (Figure 1).

Figure 1
Thread trace hemline with hand stitches.

Machine stitch 1/8" from the hemline using a short stitch length. Trim the hem allowance 1/8" from the stitched line (Figure 2).

Figure 2
Machine stitch 1/8" from hemline; trim 1/8" from stitching.

Using your thumb and index finger, roll the edge, enclosing the machine stitching and rolling to the thread-traced hemline. Hold the roll over your index finger and slipstitch the hem in place.

Use a fine needle and a single strand of fine silk, cotton or polyester thread.

Anchor the thread with a small backstitch. Slipstitch by picking up a single thread of the scarf fabric, then taking a small (Figure 3). Figure 3
Roll hem with thumb and index finger; slipstitch hem.

It's easier to stitch if you hold the hem taut while sewing. Use a third hand, or anchor the hem in front of you with a heavy weight.

Remove the visible thread tracing, but do not press the hem flat. It should remain a soft roll.