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Sewing Q&A
Marla Stefanelli
February 2003 Sewing Q&A Index
From Our February 2003 Issue

How do you bind a V neckline? I would like to have it show on some shirts and be folded to the inside on others.
Shifra G.,

Use the first method given here for bindings that will show on the right side. Note: If you're using a knit fabric for the binding, stretch it slightly as you sew the binding to the neck edge.
  • Cut bias binding 2" longer than the neck opening. See the directions for the sweatshirt for measuring and cutting the binding width. Fold one short end under 1/2" and press.
  • On the shirt front, reinforce the V with short machine stitches along the seamline. Clip to, but not through, the stitching at the point of the V.
  • With right sides together, place the folded end of the bias strip at the center back and pin the strip to the neck edge. Note: Stretch the binding slightly at the shoulder curves so the binding will lie flat along the neck edge. Spread the neck at the V so the clip opens up and the binding stays straight (6). Overlap the end over the starting point by 1/2".
  • Stitch with a 1/4" seam.
  • Fold the binding at the V to form a miter on the right side. Fold the binding to the wrong side and form a miter at the V in the opposite direction as the right side. Turn under the binding raw edge so it overlaps the previous stitching; pin in place. Slipstitch the binding to secure.

    To face the edge with binding (the binding won't show on the right side), cut a bias strip 3" to 4" longer than the opening measurement. Cut the binding the same width as noted above.
  • Fold under one short end 1/2" and press. With wrong sides together, fold the strip in half lengthwise and press lightly.
  • With right sides together, pin the folded end of the bias strip at the garment center back neck edge. Matching the raw edges, pin and sew the strip to the neck opening with a 1/4"seam allowance. Ease in a little extra fullness around the neck at the shoulders. Stop sewing at the point of the V at the center front.
  • Fold the binding back on itself, so the fold is even with the center front line (7). Then fold the binding back up, aligning it with the neck edge. Start stitching at the center front point (8), and continue to the center back. Turn in the end to butt against the beginning.
Stop stitching at center front; fold binding back on itself. Fold binding back up and stitch, starting at center front.
  • Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves. Turn the binding to the wrong side, overlapping the seam allowance and forming a miter at the center front; press and pin in place. Note. Trim excess underneath the miter to reduce bulk. Slipstitch the binding in place or topstitch from the right side to secure. Slipstitch the ends together to finish.

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