Flat Seam Allowance - Sew News Magazine

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Sewing Q&A
Terry Siemsen

How can I get a smooth edge on a jacket front lower curve and keep the seam allowances flat?
Jessica T.,
Sandy, UT

First, press the jacket/facing seam open over a curved tailor board. Then press the seam closed in its finished position. Trim and grade the seam allowances using pinking shears to notch the curves (Figure 1).

Figure 1
Trim and grade curves with pinking shears.

If the seam allowances still don't lie flat, cut small notches at the curve, alternating the placement on the inner and outer seam allowances (Figure 2). These notches allow the seam allowance edges to draw in and lie flat.

Figure 2
Stagger notches at curve.