Marla Stefanelli
April 2003 Sewing Q&A Index
From Our April 2003 Issue
What kind of glue is used for hemming leather?
Hans T.,
Look for a strong, yet flexible glue recommended for leather. Two types include adhesives with vinyl acetate in them and rubber cement.
Vinyl acetate adhesives are the most versatile. Theytate in them and rubber cement.
Vinyl acetate adhesives are the most versatile. They're easy to apply with a bristle brush, can be thinned with water and dry clear. Before applying the glue, place a piece of paper along the glue line for a clean application (1).

Apply adhesive to both surfaces to be bonded. When the color starts to change from white to clear and the surfaces are tacky, press the two layers together. Use weights or clips (with their jaws covered with leather to protect against marring) to hold the layers together while they dry. If the glue dries before bonding, reactivate it with water. Rub the leather edges to burnish and prevent an obvious glue line. When gluing leather linings, apply glue to only one surface and then join immediately to the other surface.
Rubber cement is another option. It has strong fumes, so be sure to use it in a well-ventilated area. It's thicker than vinyl acetate and more difficult to spread over a large area unless it's thinned with solvent. Use a metal or cardboard spreader to apply a thin layer to both surfaces and join them together when the cement is almost dry. Avoid getting it on the leather edges--it can't be burnished without leaving an ugly glue line. Rubber cement doesn't penetrate leather's surface, so the layers can be pulled apart after the glue dries. Chemicals used in dry cleaning can weaken the bond made with rubber cement.
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