Patch Pockets - Sew News Magazine

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Sewing Q&A
Terry Siemsen

How can I get smooth, even curves on a patch pocket?
Simone R.,
New Orleans, LA

Pressing curves on a patch pocket is easy when you use a template, such as the metal Pocket Curve Template available in notions departments.

Choose one of four curves, or make a template from lightweight cardboard or a file folder by tracing over the pocket pattern stitching lines and foldlines (Figure 1). Place the template over the pocket wrong side with its edges along the pocket stitching lines; press the seam allowances onto the template.

Figure 1
Trace stitching and foldlines.

For a lined patch pocket, fuse interfacing to the pocket wrong side. Press the facing down along the foldline and stitch the pocket lining to the facing, leaving an opening for turning (Figure 2).

Figure 2
Stitch lining to facing, leaving opening for turning.

Carefully mark the stitching lines on the interfacing (Figure 3).

Figure 3
Mark stitching lines.

Pin and sew the pocket and lining together, stitching exactly on the marked lines (Figure 4).

Figure 4
Stitch over marked lines.

Using a point press, press the seams open. Trim and grade the seam allowances, trimming slightly closer to the stitching in the curves. Notch the seam allowances in the curves, or trim with pinking shears (Figure 5).

Figure 5
Trim curves with pinking shears or notch.

Turn the pocket right side out through the opening and press, rolling the lining to the wrong side. A small cardboard curve template can be slipped inside the pocket through the opening to help press a smooth, even curve. If the seam allowances still won't press smoothly, redraw and stitch a softer curve (Figure 6).

Figure 6
Soften curves.