Sewing Q&A
Terry Siemsen
September 2002 Sewing Q&A Index
How do you convert pattern yardage from a woven to knit fabric and vice versa? Do you allow extra ease when converting to woven?
MarIa S.,
Arvada, CO
Add extra ease if the pattern is designed for knits but is being made from woven fabric. This is especially true if the garment is fitted. A form-fitting garment such as a leotard or swimsuit isn't suitable for woven fabrics as the stretch is needed for comfort and ease in taking the garment on and off. If the garment is pulled on and off over the head the stretch is also needed. The stretch of the knit is the ease in the garment.
If converting a design from woven fabric to knits, the pattern may need to be a size or two smaller depending on the amount of fabric stretch and the desired appearance of the garment.
To determine the amount of fabric stretch, fold the cut edge over about 10" and mark a 4"-wide section with pins. Grasp the fold at the two pin marks and stretch easily along a ruler edge (5). Single-knit T-shirts and some double knits usually have 25% stretch. Interlock knits stretch about 50%. Very stretchy fabrics with 75% to 100% stretch are usually found in swimwear, sportswear and ribbed sweater knits. A pattern calling for 75% stretch and above may not be suitable for woven fabric.
There may also be a difference in yardage requirements due to the variance in fabric widths between woven and knitted fabrics. Knit fabrics are usually wider than wovens and the pattern yardage may not reflect this width. Copy and laminate the conversion chart below and keep in your purse as a reference when shopping. The chart is only a guideline, the new yardage may vary depending on the size of the pattern pieces, whether extra yardage is required for matching plaids and designs, or the chosen fabric requires a with-nap layout.
Printer Friendly Version
Terry Siemsen is former home economics teacher who's always looking for the easiest way to achieve a beautiful-looking garment inside and out. She is the owner of Thimbles, Etc., specializing in custom-sized sterling and gold thimbles.
 |
More Articles Past Issues |
