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Sewing Q&A
Terry Siemsen

How can I permanently pleat silk?
Georgina,
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Because there are so many silk weights and types, there are several different techniques to try. Some silks should be pressed dry while others require steam. Some silks water-spot so test different methods on a fabric sample first.

The most common method for setting pleats is using a solution of half water and half white vinegar sprayed on a press cloth. Cover the area to be pleated with the press cloth and press until nearly dry. Allow the fabric to cool and dry thoroughly before moving it. If you intend to wash your silk garment, wash the sample to see if the pleats hold.

Another method is to edgestitch each pleat crease from the outside and inside of the garment (Figure 1). Stitch very close to the pleat edge using matching thread and 8 to 10 stitches per inch.

Figure 1
Edgestitch folds of each pleat from outside and inside.



Depending on the garment, you may want to pleat the fabric before cutting out the pattern pieces. If making a skirt, stitch the hem before pleating the fabric.

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