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Easing Versus Gathering

The term, "ease" is very common in pattern instructions but do you understand the meaning? The meaning of ease is to bring or pull fabric fibers in to fit a smaller area without causing any puckers or gathers. One of the tell tale signs of a "homemade garment" is to see puckers or gathers, especially in the sleeve cap of a garment. Learning the difference can mean the all the difference in a well constructed garment.

Many times you will see tuck, ease and gather type of construction problems on "seconds" in a discount shop. To the trained eye these puckers scream "uck" and is why the entire garment is discounted.

Easing is done by making two to three rows of stitching, the same way you would to gather, but the stitches are pulled just enough to condense or pull together the fibers of the fabric. Gathering on the other hand, pull the fabric together and make a ruffle effect in the fabric. Even gathers will be evenly spread across the gathered area and will not have tucks or pleats.

Take a close look at these samples to fully understand the difference in easing, pleats, tucks and gathers. Click on any image to see an enlarged photo of the sample.

ease sample
Ease
gather sample
Gathers
Sample of ease with puckers
Improper Ease Which Creates Puckers And Tucks
Sample of uneven ease
Uneven Gathers With Tucks And Puckers

Ways to prevent gathers and puckers:

  • If these errors occur while you are sewing, take the time to use the seam ripper and take out the stitches.
  • If no matter how you try, the pattern pieces will not go together without gathers or tucks, go back and check that the pieces are the same size as the pattern piece. The slightest error in cutting or the seams of the garment can change the way the pieces will go together. Learn more about how errors can multiply in Design, Accuracy and Alterations For Sewing Your Own Clothing
  • If a fabric has a lot of stretch or loose fibers, take the time to "stay stitch" before you start any constructions and handle the fabric with care to prevent it from getting out of shape.

    Learn more about easing at the following sites:


    Easing in a Seam by David Page Coffin
    Puckered Seams: The Needle And The Damage Done By SANDRA BETZINA
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