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Understanding Serging and Overlocking

Many of us started home sewing, long before Sergers were a home machine. Here you'll find some information to get you started, on understanding a machine I can't live without!

So what exactly is a serger?
A serger is a machine that creates the finished seam you see on the seams of ready made garments such as side seams in sweat shirts and tee shirts. Due to industrial influences, you will hear people refer to what home sewers have come to know as serging by many different term. Overlock and Merrow® (named after the Merrow Sewing Machine Company) are just a few.

What does a serger do?
A serger trims the seam and encloses the seam allowance inside a thread casing, all in one step.

What are they talking about when they say 2-3-4 thread serging?
Sergers are available with various threading options.

  • A 2-4 Thread serger - This machine has the capabilities of a true safety stitch and a two thread overlocked edge. Two threads are used on each operation and you can use the machine to create each stitch separately from the other.
  • A 3-4 Thread Serger - A machine which can function with 3 or 4 threads. Either amount threads will have a seam with some stretch capabilities, however a 4 thread seam, will give you a wider and stronger seam.
    Most of these machines also have a rolled hem capability, by changing of the throat plate. For a rolled hem, the machine rolls the very edge of the fabric to the under side and encloses the edge with thread.
    The 4 thread seam is sometimes refereed to as a "mock safety" stitch. It has much of the strength of a seam made with a Safety stitch or a separate seam but is not as strong.
  • A 5 Thread Serger - This machine is in the expensive range but has all the seam capabilities you could want. 3 threads are used on the overlocked edge and 2 are used for the straight seam line. This is the seam you see on ready mades that have a overlocked edge with the straight seam having a chain stitch. When doing production work, this machine eliminate having to switch between machines for a strong seam finish.

What is differential feed?
A machine with differential feed gives you more options. When you are working with knits, you can adjust the feed, to obtain the same results that you would with an even feed foot on your regular machine. When working with a single layer of woven fabrics, you can "speed up the feed", to create a ruffle. You can also adjust the machine to create a waved edge (lettuce leaf) effect.

Can a serger replace my regular sewing machine?
Although some projects can be done 100% on a serger, a serger can not replace a regular sewing machine. You will still need a regular machine for facings, zippers, top stitching,button holes, etc. A serger can not do this job.

What about that stitch with two rows of top stitching and that sergered look inside?
This is the finish you find on some cuffs and seams that appear to be double needle top stitched. This stitch is called a cover stitch. I have heard there are some new sergers on the market with this capability.

What machine is best?
As with any machine purchase, all of our expectations vary. Take the time to learn about what is on the market. Decide what is best for you. A serger is a new experience. If your dealer offers lessons, take advantage of them, to learn how to use all the machines capabilities. There are many books on the market for projects. Be sure to read Sewing Machine Buying Tips if your not sure what to do next.

Do I have to have a serger?
A serger is not required equipment to sew. It does make a life much easier on many of today's fabrics and it adds a lot of strength to many seams, especially childrens clothing.

Read the experience other people have had with particular sergers, before you buy. Read the Serger Owner Opinion Survey Results.

More Information

Baby Lock - FAQ
Baby Locks page of frequently asked questions which have been tailored to Baby Lock machines but can help you gain a better understanding of a sergers capabilities.

Buying a Serger
Whether your experienced or baffled by sergers, this is the informational site to learn all about sergers.

Selecting A Sewing Machine
Things to look for and pointers for buying the correct machine for your sewing needs.

Serge It List
An email list with a focus on serging. A great way to learn all kinds of sewing information. Wonderful, friendly, people!

Serger / Overlock Hints & Tips
A page full of hints and tips to help with your serger.

AllBrands.comSewing Machine Super Store--On line sewing machine sales with all brands represented.

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