Laying Out A Pattern
Once you have choosen your fabric and pre-shrunk it, laying out a pattern is the next step.
What you will need
- Your fabric and pattern
- Straight pins
- A cleared flat area, large enough to accomadate your fabric.
- Measuring tools
- Scissors
Things to consider
- Does you fabric have a design that you would not want to land in certain areas?
- For example: If the fabric has a large star design, you would not want a star to land at the bust point.
- Mark the areas of your pattern to remind yourself not to have the fabric design land in these locations.
- Will you be using the with nap or without nap layout?
- Velvets and velours are just a few of the fabrics that require the with nap layout.
- If your fabric is a one way design you will also need the with nap layout.
- Some fabrics have differnet hues depending on the direction they are laying. Be sure to hold up the fabric from two different directions to see if the direction makes a difference with your fabric.
- Have you checked the pattern fit?
- There is nothing more discouraging then making a garment to have it not fit. Read more at Choosing Patterns and Altering Patterns .
- Have you choosen an appropriate fabric for the pattern?
- All commercial patterns have a suggested fabrics area on the pattern envelope. The pattern was designed for the types of fabric listed.
- For example: If you choose a woven fabric for a pattern that suggests knits, you may not have the give in the fabric, that is required to put the garment on, as well as the garment not hanging or fitting the way it was intended.
- Are you using a multi sized pattern?
- If you are using a multisized patterns, you may want to trace your pattern rather then cut the original. If you do cut a pattern piece, label the cut section and place it in the pattern envelope.
- Do you have good fabric shears?
- Fabric scissors should be preserved for fabric only. Using them to cut paper dulls them. Even triming your pattern as you cut it out, dulls good scissors.
- Are your pattern pieces and fabric pressed flat.
- If you do not take the time to prepare your pattern and fabric, it will alter your finished garment. Have all items pressed so that they will lay flat.
- Make sure your fabric is laying flat and smooth on both sides of the fold. If it isn't you will be adding fabric to the pattern piece and it will alter your finished garment.
The Layout Guide
All commercial patterns come with a layout guide. These are usually enginerred to make to best use of your fabric.
- Read the page and general directions.
- Learn the keys for the diagrams, you will be using. Patlay3.gif Patlay4.gif
- Although this may seem like basic information, the general directuions, vary by pattern company and by the age of the pattern.
- Even if you have been sewing for years, the companies change their details and reading the general directions will bring you up to date on any changes.
- Decide on the view or item you will be making.
- Some patterns use a view letter or number and occasionally you will have a pattern that uses the garment type for the lay out directions.
- Find the pattern pieces for the view you want to make.
- Prevent missing pieces in the future by putting the pattern pieces, you are not using, in the pattern envelope.
- Choose the layout for the view, width of your fabric,size of the pattern you are using and nap layout you will be using.
- Cirlce this on the layout guide, to prevent your eyes going to the wrong layout for your project.
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