All sewing machine needles have the same basic parts. The variation in needles is caused by the shape of the parts and the length of the parts.
Shank
- The upper thick part of a sewing machine needle is called the shank. This part of the needle is inserted in the machine. Home sewing machine needles are composed of a flat and a round side, to assist in always having the needle in the correct position.
- Always refer to your sewing machine manual for the correct way to insert the needle in your machine.
- Industrial machine needles have a completely round shaft and the groove is used to know which direction to put a new needle in the machine.
Shaft
- The shaft of a sewing machine needle is the area from the bottom of the shank to the point. The shaft contains the groove, scarf, eye and point of the needle.
Groove
- A groove is in the side of the needle leading to the eye. The groove is a place for the thread to lay into the needle.
- Use your fingernail and feel the groove of the needle on various sizes to understand why a different size thread would be needed for heavier thread.
Scarf
- The scarf is a groove out of one side of the needle. The scarf allows the bobbin case hook to intersect with the upper thread and form stitches.
Eye
- The eye of the needle carries the thread so the machine can keep forming stitches.
- The size of the eye can vary and works in conjunction with the groove of the needle.
- Using a needle with an eye that is too small or too large can cause your thread to shred and break.
- The point of the needle is the first contact with the fabric and responsible for how the needle pierces the fabric.
- The most common types of point are sharps, ballpoint and universal.
- Sharp needles are for all woven fabric. The sharp point is especially helpful when sewing straight lines and tasks such as tops stitching.
- Ballpoint needles are designed for knit fabric so that the point glides between the loops of a knit fabric without disturbing the fibers that make up the fabric. Ball point needles do not form as straight stitching as sharp needles. The non-straight stitching is more apt to stretch with the fabric.
- Universal needles can be used with woven or knit fabric. The point of a universal needle is sharp yet very slightly rounded giving it the characteristics of a sharp and a ballpoint needle. If you are not happy with the stitches your machine is forming, try switching the needle to either a ball point or sharp.
- Sharp needles are for all woven fabric. The sharp point is especially helpful when sewing straight lines and tasks such as tops stitching.


