Sewing Q&A
Terry Siemsen
I make all of my skirts and pants with elastic waists. What's the best method for applying an elastic waistband without destroying its stretch?
Pat B.,
Elastic is a rubber or spandex yarn made either by knitting, weaving or braiding it with another fiber, usually polyester or cotton. Spandex is superior to rubber, being better able to withstand body oils, perspiration, lotions, dry-cleaning fluids, bleaches and chlorine. It's also the choice for those with a latex allergy.
Braided elastic narrows when stretched and has lengthwise parallel ribs. It's usually enclosed in a casing, since the stretch and recovery are affected if the rubber is stitched through. Cotton braided elastic is used in swimwear. It's shrink-resistant and unaffected by chlorine, salt water and most suntan oils.
Both woven and knitted elastic can be stitched through or used in a casing and won't narrow when stretched. Woven elastics can be recognized by both crosswise and lengthwise ribs. Knit elastics are usually encased in a casing. The elastic width determines the amount of stretch or tension. Narrow elastic has less tension than wider elastic.
For a professional-looking, easy, elastic-waistline application, use 1 1/2"-wide sport elastic.
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Preshrink the elastic by soaking it in very hot water, then line dry. Allow 4 1/4" above the waist for the casing (Figure 1).
Figure 1
Allow 4 1/4" for casing.
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Stitch the garment center back seam, leaving 2 1/4" open at the upper edge. Baste the opening closed and press the casing center-back seam allowance open (Figure 2).
Figure 2
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Serge-finish the garment upper edge. Turn down the casing 2 1/4" and press the fold. Stitch 1/4" from the fold, starting and ending at the center back seam. This creates a small fluted edge. Stitch again approximately 1 5/8" from the first line of stitching (Figure 3). This will allow the elastic to fit through the casing.
Figure 3
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Measure your waist and subtract 5". Cut sport elastic this length. Be sure this length is able to stretch around the widest part of your hips. Remove the basting and insert the elastic into the casing using a safety pin or bodkin. Join the elastic ends by butting the edges together and zigzag stitching securely. Distribute the casing fabric fullness evenly around the elastic.
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Topstitch two evenly spaced rows around the waistband, stretching the elastic so the fabric is flat while stitching (Figure 4). This stitching gives the appearance of a sport elastic application but with an easy enclosed casing with elastic that won't roll.
Topstitch two evenly spaced rows.
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