Sewing Q&A
Marla Stefanelli
January 2003 Sewing Q&A Index
From Our January 2003 Issue
How do I choose a pattern when my figure is two different sizes?
Sally J.,
Brooklyn, NY
You're not alone. The majority of people are different sizes on the upper and lower halves of their bodies. The best guideline is to buy patterns for blouses, jackets and dresses by your upper-bust measurement (9).
The upper bust is a more accurate measurement of your body frame, so the pattern will fit the shoulders and neckline better. If you have a large bust (more than 2" larger than the upper bust) and buy the pattern according to the bust measurement, the garment will be too large in the neck and shoulders. For skirts and pants, buy the pattern according to the fullest hip measurement between your waist and crotch.
If your measurements fall between two sizes, choose the srnaller size for most garments. If the pattern is for a very fitted garment, choose the larger size. Also look for multisized patterns-- then simply grade the seams from one size to the other.
Pin-fit patterns and make any alterations necessary before cutting from the fashion fabric. See "Resources" at the end of this article for books on how to ailter and fit patterns. Once you're familiar with the alterations needed, it's easy to get a great fit every time.
RESOURCES
The following books are available from your local fabric store, bookstore or library.
Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring by Pati Palmer and Susan Pletsch; published by Palmer/Pletsch Inc., 2000; www.palmerpletsch .com.
Fantastic Fit for Every Body by Gale Grigg Hazen; published by Rodale Press, 1998; www.rodalestore.com.
Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto; published by Palmer/Pletsch Inc., 1998; www.palmerpletsch .com.
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