Sewing Q&A
April 2004 Sewing Q&A Index
From Our April 2004 Issue
By Marla Stefanelli
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When making my husband Hawaiian shirts I have a problem with the hem being too short in the front because he has a large stomach. How can I make the shirt the same length in the front and back? Janet B., San Francisco, CA |
You need to adjust the shirt front pattern to add the necessary length and width to cover your husband's tummy. If the shirt pattern is large enough around his body, then just make the length adjustment.
Have him put on a shirt he likes the length of and measure from the back hem to the floor.Then measure the same distance from the floor in the front to find where the front hem should fall. Measure from the neckline down to the established point and record this amount. Also measure from the side seam to the center front and make note of this amount.
To add width, slash the pattern from the lower edge up to the shoulder seamline. Place pattern tracing cloth underneath the pattern and spread the pattern 1/2 the needed amount plus 3/4" for ease (1). Tape the pattern to the pattern tracing cloth.
To add the necessary length, slash the pattern from the front edge to the side seam midway between the armseye and lower hemline. Place pattern tracing cloth under the pattern and spread the pattern so the front edge equals your husband's measurement from the neckline to the finished front hemline (2).
Draw a straight line from the neck edge to the hem at the center front to true the edge. Measure the new center front line to be sure it's still the correct length--adjust if necessary.True the shoulder seam, and true the lower edge so it's a smooth curve from the side seam to the front edge (3).
tip
For a smooth lower edge where the side seams join, make the adjusted hem and cutting line intersect the seamline at a 90° angle.
April 2004 Sewing Q&A Index
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